THE DAY OF THE DEAD IS NOT JUST A DAY

 "Everyone knew that being dead could put you in a terrible mood."   The Hummingbird's Daughter, by Luis Urrea
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> It is believed that death is not the end of life, but the continuation of life in a parallel world.  Once a year, the dead are carried by the winds and returned to their former homes.  The spirits need help finding their way home and they must be made welcome. 
> The door from the underworld, to the world of the living, is made with an arch of marigold flowers.  The spirits arrive hungry, so their favorite foods are offered.  They also arrive very thirsty and far too sober for the celebrations. They like candy, made in their image, skulls and crave the bread for the dead. They must be cheered-up.  In death, as she was in life, if mama is not happy, no one is happy.    
> All over Mexico, the last week of October brings cleaning and pruning the cemeteries, where their love ones will return.  Everything must be perfect. Everything must be beautiful. 
> The traditional Purepecha celebrations are the most unique and beautiful in the world, because in Michoacan, they celebrate Noche de Muerta, or Night of the dead.  Morelia and the Lake Patzcuaro area are known for their nighttime cemeteries, shrouded in Marigolds and illuminated by thousands of candles.  
> In Morelia, walk the Calzada de Fray Antonio, the “pedestrians-only” street and see the ofrendas, alters or shines. Stroll through the government buildings, hotels and stores to see their ofrendas. It would be worth a trip to Morelia’s cemetery, on the Periferico, on Nov 1-2.  But, whatever you do, do not miss the special Day of the Dead displays at the Candy Museum,  Museo del Dulce, near the historical center of Morelia.
> Each village, town or city in Mexico has their own celebrations, with parades, markets, concerts, exhibitions, ceremonies and dances.  
> In Patzcuaro, the famed Day of the Dead Artisans Market begins Saturday, October 27 at the Plaza Grande. Arrive early to get the best pieces of Ocumicho fantasy ceramic sculpture.  If you see something you like, get it, since it will probably not be there when you return.  
> See, smell and buy Day of the Dead flowers at the Marigold Market, located on the south side of the Basílica on Calle Serrato.  Enjoy the intoxicating aroma from the glorious mounds of cempazuchitl (marigolds) and maroon-colored mota de obispo (cock’s comb).  Carry arm-loads of marigolds back to your home or hotel. 
> The library, Biblioteca Gertrudis Bocanegra, on Plaza Chica has several exhibits for Day of the Dead.  The Noche de Muertos Catrina exhibit and sale of the famous figurines from Capula opens the evening of 30 October.  Also at the Library is the exhibit of the altars and offerings for Night of the Dead that are traditional in the Lake Pátzcuaro region, opening November 1.  
> Don’t miss the arrival of caballeros and caballeras riding into Pátzcuaro’s Basílica de la Vírgen de la Salud courtyard on horses, ponies and burros just before dusk, for a special mass. It is a thrilling sight.
> For another side of Dia de Muertos, visit the Temple of Santa Muerte. About four miles west of Patzcuaro, on the Lake, in Santa Ana Chapitiro, is the Temple for Santa Muerte, a sacred figure venerated in Mexico since the pre-Columbian era. Santa Muerte generally appears as a skeletal figure, clad in a long robe and carrying one or more objects, usually a scythe and a globe. The saint can be seen in the celebration of the Day of the Dead.  According to Wikipedia, the use of skeletons is to remind people of their mortality.  Next to the Temple is Abarrotes Las Carolinas.  Miguel Gerardo will show you around.   
> For those who want to really enjoy the tradition and beauty of Day of the Dead, arrive in Tzintzuntzan late afternoon and visit the artisan fair to see local pottery and crafts.  Then go to the cemetery to view the ofrendas and watch the magic as the sun goes down and the light of the candles takes over. If you miss the Tzintzuntzan cemetery that night, don’t worry, the next few days are less crowded and it’s easier to see the incredible ofrendas. 
> Janitzio Island is the site of one of Mexico's most celebrated Day of the Dead observances.  Each year on Nov. 1, islanders and their neighbors take to their boats to enact a candlelight ritual, the flames reflected in the water, the boats laden with flowers and the boaters chanting. Boat rides from the muelle, the boat dock, are breathtaking, and inexpensive.
> All over Mexico, around Lake Patzcuaro, in any city, town or village with a cemetery, in Morelia or the tiny village of Erongaricuaro, there will be beautiful Día de Muertos celebrations. If you attend, be ready to celebrate and to cheer-up the grumpy dead. 
> You never know who might arrive, on the next gust of wind.

Ken and I went to get our cell phones and it was no easy process.  It took the ladies about two hours to get the phone registered (with our passports no less) and to program the phone for English.  They are pay as you go and here you buy the phone and then just pay for min. as you need them  The phones cost less than 50.00 for both.

Then we went to the grand central plaza and things are getting ready there for tonight and on and on and on.  I tell you these folks do not mess around with this "day" of the dead - it is not just one day.  We had to park far away, when we go this evening we will take a taxi. 

 The hill (?) we parked on had this really neat house and boy what a view.

This is what we saw in the plaza this morning.  All the children dress us and it is very much like the Halloween stuff in the states.  Only this is not just about getting candy.

  

The kids were having a ball.  Now I will get ready for what is going to happen tonight - and I really have no idea what to expect.  

Happy day of the dead or halloween.